Jacobite Journeys

This blog was written for us by Susanne Arbuckle of Adventures Around Scotland about her visit to the West Highlands in May 2022 when she was staying at Spean Lodge Country House B&B. 
Here she takes us through the Jacobite heritage of the area which you can experience on foot, by train or by boat!

High Bridge, Spean Bridge

Although many visitors make a point of stopping at the famous Commando Memorial near to Spean Bridge, far fewer venture beyond the car park. If they did, they would notice a weathered wooden finger post marking the pathway to the ‘historic High Bridge’. The trail forms part of a 5km circular walking route which also passes through the village of Spean Bridge, close to Spean Lodge Country House, making it an ideal starting and finishing point for guests.

For those that are unaware, the High Bridge was the location of the first shots fired in the 1745 Jacobite Uprising making it a significant place to visit for anyone interested in Jacobite history. The bridge was built in 1736 as part of General Wade’s military road scheme across the Highlands to improve access between the Government garrisons in Fort William, Fort Augustus and Inverness in the aftermath of the previous Risings in 1715 and 1719.

When Bonnie Prince Charlie landed on the west coast of Scotland in July 1745, around 80 men from 2 companies of Royal Scots were sent from Fort Augustus to bolster the garrison numbers in Fort William. In response, 11 men and a piper from the MacDonald of Keppoch Clan made their way to the High Bridge and ambushed the Government troops. Despite being outnumbered, the clansmen created a cacophony of noise and leapt around rapidly, giving the impression that their numbers were greater.

When the soldiers decided to retreat believing they were outnumbered, the MacDonalds fired at them as they gave pursuit, killing at least a couple of the Government soldiers and wounding others. The Royal Scots finally surrendered at the head of Loch Lochy, bringing an early victory to the Jacobites.

Today the bridge is in partial ruin but the walk there is a fairly easy and rewarding one, with views across to Ben Nevis on the way, making it a worthwhile excursion.

Glenfinnan

The small settlement of Glenfinnan is around a 30-minute drive from Spean Bridge. Over recent years it has become a popular destination for Harry Potter fans who line up to watch the Jacobite steam train (aka the ‘Harry Potter’ train) trundle across the Glenfinnan Viaduct after it played a starring role in the movie series. However, Glenfinnan has another more significant claim to fame because it was here in 1745 that Prince Charles Edward Stuart raised the royal standard to mark the official start of his campaign to regain the British throne for a Stuart king.

The Bonnie Prince had sent out a call for clan chiefs to support his claim to the throne and after rowing up Loch Shiel to the muster point at Glenfinnan, he was met by the first of 1200 clansmen who would pledge allegiance to him. Eight months later, many of them would die at Culloden, the fateful and bloody battle that culminated in the defeat of the Jacobites.

A monument to those who fought and died in the 1745 Rising was built in Glenfinnan in 1815 by local landowner, Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale, a descendant of supporters of the prince. The poignant memorial stands on the shores of Loch Shiel, not far from the point where Charles Edward Stuart raised the royal flag and clansmen gathered in support of his cause. In the 1830s, a statue of a lone kilted Highlander was placed at the top of the tower.

Visitors interested in learning more about the historic events in Glenfinnan and the 1745 Jacobite Rising can view an exhibition at the National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre where you can also buy a ticket to climb the monument for 360-degree panoramic views from the top. For a different perspective, book a boat trip with Loch Shiel Cruises and enjoy the landscape through the eyes of Bonnie Prince Charlie as he travelled along the water to Glenfinnan.

Fort William

As the name suggests, prior to becoming a residential town and the Outdoor Capital of the UK, Fort William was a strategic stronghold. A wooden complex known as Inverlochy Fort was first built in 1654, later replaced by a stone fort in 1690 which was subsequently renamed Fort William, after King William III.  It was one of several forts spanning the Great Glen and in 1725 its fortifications were improved by General Wade as part of the government’s plan to prevent further Jacobite rebellions.

When the Jacobites laid siege to the fort on 20^th March 1746, Wade’s enhancements proved to be a success after the Jacobites failed to make much of an impact and were forced to give up a couple of weeks later. The fort remained manned until 1864 when it was sold and in 1889 it was taken over by the North British Railway who gradually demolished the structure to make way for a new railway line. Today, most of the fort has been removed and replaced by modern developments although part of the seaward wall and entrance archway are among the scant remains.

Visitors can get an insight into how the fort would have looked at the West Highland Museum in Fort William’s town centre. Panelling from the Governor’s room has been re-erected along with other objects saved from the fort. For those interested in Jacobite history, there is a fascinating exhibition covering the various Risings and some significant objects are on display including a secret portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie and a fine silk waistcoat belonging to the prince.

Photos copyright Susanne Arbuckle 2022.